List of Hair Types: Comprehensive Guide to Understanding Your Natural Hair Texture
Hey hair lovers! Whether you’ve been on the journey for years or are just beginning to embrace your locks, knowing your hair type is crucial. The system was created by Andre Walker. I still remember the day I stood in front of the mirror, wet hair dripping down my back, trying to figure out what type of curl pattern I had. No wonder those products that worked wonders on my friend’s hair made mine look like a frizzy mess! It’s about respecting your natural texture and knowing how to take care of it. In this guide, we will walk you through everything you need to know about hair types and how to identify yours. Because when we understand our hair, we can love it more – and isn’t that what we all deserve?
Understanding Hair Types
Understanding Hair Types: What are the key factors that determine your natural hair texture? The science behind hair types goes much deeper than categorizing whether someone’s hair is straight or curly. Curl pattern refers to the shape that your hair naturally forms—whether it grows straight, wavy, curly, or coily. The shape of your hair follicle predominantly determines this pattern. Oval or asymmetrical follicles result in curly or coily hair, whereas round follicles lead to straight hair.
Strand Thickness: This is sometimes conflated with density, but it refers to the diameter of each individual hair strand. Regardless of your curl pattern, you can have fine, medium, or coarse hair strands. I was surprised to learn I have fine hair when I tested my own strands, despite having lots of hair overall.
Porosity: The ability of hair to absorb and retain moisture. Low porosity hair struggles to absorb moisture but retains it effectively, whereas high porosity hair easily absorbs moisture but also loses it rapidly.
Density: The amount of hair strands per square inch on your scalp. It is possible to have thick hair with a fine texture or thin hair with a coarse texture.
The widely used system was developed by Oprah Winfrey’s former hair stylist in the 1990s. The hair typing system categorizes hair into four types (1-4), each with three subtypes (A-C) based on texture and curl tightness
according to the Andre Walker Hair Typing System.
However, it has been criticized for perpetuating the idea that straight hair is “better” than naturally curly or coily hair
as discussed in research on texturism.
Approximately 45% of the global population has type 1 hair, while about 15% have type 4 hair. Type 2 and 3 hair make up the other 40% of women, which shows just how diverse our hair truly is. What makes it so helpful is that it gives us a common language to talk about hair care needs and find the best products and techniques. But remember, your hair is uniquely yours and figuring out the type is just the start of your hair love journey.
Hair Type Chart & Classification with Visual Guide
We know how helpful visual guides can be when you’re trying to determine hair types, especially when comparing similar patterns (i.e. wavy hair types or curly hair types).
- Type 1A (Fine Straight)
- Appearance: Completely straight, sleek and shiny
- Texture: Very fine, soft and often thin-looking
- Behavior: Difficult to hold a curl, tends to get oily quickly
- Diameter: Typically less than 0.04 millimeters
- Type 1B (Medium Straight)
- Appearance: Straight, but with more body than 1A
- Texture: Medium thickness
- Behavior: Slight bend; can sometimes hold style better than 1A
- Type 1C (Coarse Straight)
- Appearance: Straight with a thick, coarse feel and some natural body
- Texture: Thickest of the straight hair types
- Behavior: May have slight waves, can be resistant to styling
- Type 2: Wavy Hair
- Type 2A (Loose Waves)
- Appearance: Fine, barely-there waves
- Texture: Generally fine, easy to manage
- Behavior: Easily straightened or curled with minimal effort
- Wave diameter: About 2 inches wide
- Type 2B (Defined Waves)
- Appearance: More distinct S-pattern closer to the head
- Texture: Medium thickness with potential for frizz
- Behavior: Waves start at mid-length, roots may appear flat
- Wave diameter: Approximately 1–2 inches wide
- Type 2C (Wide Waves)
- Appearance: Thick, clearly defined waves close to bordering on curly
- Texture: Often 1 inch wide
- Type 2A (Loose Waves)
- Type 3: Curly Hair
- Type 3A (Loose Curls)
- Appearance: Big, loose spiral curls
- Texture: Soft, with a definite curl pattern
- Diameter: Around 1 inch
- Type 3B (Defined Curls)
- Appearance: Springy ringlets
- Texture: Coarse, voluminous curls
- Diameter: About ½ inch
- Type 3C (Tight Curls)
- Appearance: Tight corkscrews, densely packed
- Diameter: About a pencil or straw width
- Type 3A (Loose Curls)
- Type 4: Coily/Kinky Hair
- Type 4A (Soft Coils)
- Appearance: Dense, soft S-shaped coils
- Texture: Well-defined pattern
- Diameter: About a crochet needle width
- Type 4B (Zig-Zag Coils)
- Appearance: Z-shaped bends, less defined
- Texture: Very tight, less visible coil
- Type 4C (Tightest Coils)
- Appearance: Fragile, densely packed zigzags
- Texture: May shrink up to 75% of natural length
- Type 4A (Soft Coils)
Types of wavy hair (2A to 2C) tend to have an S-shaped pattern, with increasing definition and volume.
Within the curly hair spectrum, it’s easy to overlook just how much unique variation occurs regionally and culturally. For example, many people associate tight curls or coily hair solely with specific ethnic backgrounds, but even within Hispanic communities, there’s a vibrant diversity of curl patterns that defy straightforward classification. The intricate relationship between culture and curl texture becomes apparent when exploring the daily routines and identity work surrounding these hair types. A fascinating exploration of embracing the beautiful chaos of Hispanic curly hair ujy4e uncovers how individual hair journeys are shaped by family traditions, societal expectations, and the day-to-day negotiations with unique curl patterns that don’t always fit neatly into numbered systems.
Identifying Your Hair Type: Step-by-Step Guide & Interactive Checklist
The beauty of it all is that these diverse hair types and textures exist on our very own heads. We can walk through a practical process to determine your hair texture. I remember feeling so confused about my own hair type until I followed these exact steps–it was like having an “aha! “ moment when everything finally clicked!
- Prep Your Hair
- Utilize a clarifying shampoo to eliminate any product buildup.
- Skip conditioner for this test (it can weigh down your natural pattern).
- Gently blot excess water with a microfiber towel or T-shirt.
- Observe Your Pattern
- Does your hair dry completely straight with no bend? (Type 1)
- Does it have an “S” shape wave pattern? (Type 2)
- Does it form tight coils or zig-zag patterns? (Type 3 or 4)
- Measure Curl Diameter and Volume
- How tight or loose the pattern is?
- What is the diameter of your waves, curls, or coils?
- How much volume does your hair have naturally?
- Check for Hair Combination
- Don’t be surprised if you discover that you have more than one hair type on your head. Combination hair is also common, where there are different textures in different parts of the head.
- Perform Porosity Test
- Try the float test: Place a clean strand of hair in water. If the strand floats, your hair has low porosity. If it sinks immediately, you have high porosity. If it gradually sinks, the hair has medium porosity. Or, slide your fingers up a strand of hair and if it feels bumpy, your hair might be highly porous.
Remember, identifying your hair type isn’t about labeling—it’s about understanding what your hair needs to thrive. Your natural hair texture is beautiful exactly as it is!
Want more help? Download our printable checklist or try an interactive online hair type quiz to get started!
Cultural Considerations & Hair Care Tip
When discussing hair types, it’s important to recognize that hair texture holds significant cultural meaning across different communities. The way we view, take care of and celebrate our natural tresses can be deeply rooted in culture and heritage. Historically, Western beauty standards favored straight or loosely wavy hair types, which posed a challenge for women with coily hair. This has led to what is known as “texturism,” which targets women with type 3 and 4 hair textures. I have watched my friends struggle to accept their natural hair texture, which is why I believe that understanding the cultural significance of hair types is just as important as knowing how to take care of them.
Cultural Hair Care Traditions
- African and African Diaspora Hair Care:
- Protective styling methods (e.g., braids, twists, locs) to retain moisture and prevent breakage.
- Use of natural oils like shea butter, coconut oil and castor oil for nourishment.
- Techniques such as “pre-pooing” to safeguard Type 4 hair during washing.
- Extensive deep conditioning processes that can span several hours.
- Asian Hair Care:
- Rice water rinses for enhancing strength and shine in Type 1 hair.
- Oil treatments with camellia or tsubaki oil for nourishment and gloss.
- A strong focus on scalp health.
The natural hair movement has enabled women to appreciate their uniqueness and combat harmful cultural norms.
Inclusive Hair Care Approaches
- Learn your hair’s history. Know and understand how traditional haircare methods work.
- Borrowing techniques is fine as long as you respect where they came from.
- Celebrate diversity: All hair types are beautiful and one should not be elevated over the other.
- Support inclusive brands: Purchase products from companies that are diverse and cater to all hair types.
As we continue to learn and grow, it’s important to embrace the beauty of hair diversity. Your natural hair texture is a part of your identity and heritage and it makes you uniquely beautiful.
Troubleshooting Common Issues by Hair Type
Here are some texture-specific troubleshooting tips based on my own trial and error (and friends’ complaints) to help you fall back in love with your natural hair.
Type 1 (Straight) Hair Issues
- Problem: Excessive Oiliness
- Solution: Use lightweight, clarifying shampoos.
- Try: Dry shampoo between washes to absorb excess oil.
- Avoid: Heavy conditioners on the scalp.
- Quick Fix: Apply shampoo primarily to roots; let it rinse through the ends.
- Problem: Lack of Volume
- Solution: Apply volumizing mousse at the roots before styling.
- Try: Blow-drying hair upside down with a round brush for extra lift.
- Avoid: Silicone-heavy products that weigh hair down.
- Quick Fix: Use texturizing spray at the roots for immediate lift and fullness.
- Problem: Static and Flyaways
- Solution: Leave-in conditioner applied mostly on ends to tame static.
- Try: Use wooden or natural bristle brushes instead of plastic ones.
- Avoid: Over-washing, as it strips away necessary natural oils.
What works for someone else with your hair type might not work exactly the same for you. Listen to your hair and adjust your routine as needed. Remember to celebrate every little victory in your hair care journey!
FAQs About Hair Types and Texture Identification
- How do I know if I have type 2B vs 2C hair?
- Type 2B hair has more defined S-shaped waves that begin at the mid-lengths, with a tendency to frizz. Type 2C has thicker waves that start at the roots and it is more prone to frizz and difficult to straighten. The key difference is in the body and definition of waves.
- Does Ethnicity Affect Hair Type?
- While certain hair types are more prevalent among specific ethnicities, an individual’s ethnicity does not determine their hair type. People of all ethnicities can have any hair type. While type 4 hair is more prevalent among individuals of African descent, it can potentially occur in any ethnic group. Straight hair is common among East Asian people but is present in all ethnic groups.
- Can My Hair Type Change Over Time?
- Yes! Hormonal changes (such as pregnancy and menopause), aging, certain medications or health conditions and even significant environmental changes can alter hair type. I’ve noticed a slight shift in my hair texture because of hormonal changes. It’s a good idea to reassess your hair type every few years.
- What are the best products for each hair type?
-
- Type 1: Lightweight volumizers, clarifying shampoos
- Type 2: Curl enhancers, lightweight mousses, sea salt sprays
- Type 3: Leave-in conditioners, curl creams, gels with hold
- Type 4: Rich butters, oils, deep conditioners, protein treatments
- How often should I wash my hair based on my hair type?
- Absolutely! Many people have different patterns on various parts of their heads. The crown might be curlier, while the nape might be straighter. This is completely normal and sometimes even requires using a few techniques on different sections.
- How do I determine my hair porosity?
- Try the float test: Place a clean strand of hair in water. If the strand floats, your hair has low porosity. If it sinks immediately, you have high porosity. If it gradually sinks, the hair has medium porosity. Or, slide your fingers up a strand of hair and if it feels bumpy, your hair might be highly porous.
- Should I Choose Products Based on Hair Type or Porosity?
- Both are equally important, but porosity usually affects how products will work on our hair. Low porosity hair needs lightweight products that easily absorb, while high porosity hair thrives with richer products that lock in moisture. Consider them when choosing the product.
Comparison Table: Key Differences Between Hair Types
Here is a side-by-side comparison of the key characteristics of all hair types.
| Characteristic | Type 1 (Straight) | Type 2 (Wavy) | Type 3 (Curly) | Type 4 (Coily) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Growth pattern | Straight | S-shaped waves | Springy ringlets | Coils and zigzags |
| Oil spread rate | Fast, every 1–2 days need a wash. | Moderate, every 2–3 days. | Slow, every 3–5 days when hair is dry enough. | Very slow oil spread rate, every week or longer. |
| Hair shrinkage | None | Very low, about 5-10%. | Around up to one-third less stretched length. | Up to three-quarters less than the stretched length. |
| Moisture needs | Lower moisture needs. | Medium | High | Very high, intensive moisturization needed |
The key is to understand your unique combination of characteristics and adjust your hair care routine accordingly. Remember, no hair type is better or worse than the others; they are all beautiful in their own unique way. Understanding and embracing what type of hair you have is key to maintaining its health.
References
On texturism and the deep roots of hair typing (OurX)
Andre Walker Hair Typing System (Wikipedia)
Get to Know Your Hair Type With the Andre Walker Method (DivinaBLK)
Hair Types (Natural Hair for Beginners)
The Science of Hair Typing (Curlsbot)
Hair Typing Visual Tutorial (YouTube)
Andre Walker Hair Types (BlackHairSpot)
Leave a Reply